Leak Delta 30

Technics SB-X700 (aka "Honeycomb speaker")

I recently acquired a pair of SB-X700 speakers in good working condition (with original speaker stands). These are quite rare in the used market. Summary of details at http://www.vintagetechnics.info/loudspeakers.htm

With cover

Cover off

Bass reflex design. Side panels sound thin when softly tab on (except the back).

Sounds pretty analog. Bass was "flabby" and mid-range lack definition. Plenty of low frequency resonance as well due to thin side panels.

Has "potential" ...

The speaker rests on a metal plate at the top of the stand. The speaker can be easily shifted when on the stand. Hence I decided to try the following. Put a "sticky mat" and eight rubber pencil erasers on each of the stands. The speaker will be place on top of the stand with the mat and erasers. The idea is to create an "iso-layer" which would absorb vibrations from the speaker e.g idea from "earthquake proof-ing" procedures!!!

Next I obtain 2 small water bottles and fill them to just over half volume. You can see them place into the internal chamber of the speaker stand on the prior picture. These will act as "dampeners" - like sand bags inside speaker stands.

Water bottles from inside speaker stand

Once done, firing the amp up verifies the theory - bass was firmer and reproduction became more natural with clearity to match!!!

Actually sounds pretty decent... 

DIY - Kwak Clock 7 (1st attempt)

This is my 1st attempt to DIY the KC7 using mainly parts recycled from my previous DIY(s).

I have not install the KC7 as yet, since I will require one of my "non-favoured " CDP to be the test unit aka "guinea pig"!

As to date, I have only used a multi-meter to ensure connectivity of the solder parts (where possible) following the instructions for the KC7 e.g clock from CDP, test for voltage before IC and the J309 is inserted.

You can E-mail Elso for the details via DIYAUDIO.

Will update once I have the opportunity to test the KC7.

Naim Nait 1

Sansui TU-D99X

Sansui C-2102 (***Update#2***)

The The C-2102 is the matching pre-amplifier for the B-2102 power amp. I use the C-2102 as the pre-amp to provide signals to my C-2102 and C-2101 for horizontal bi-amping.

One of the unique features is of the C-2102 is the use of parametric equalisers for tone control. It is known to possess a good phono stage.

Front

Rear

I bought the C-2102, B-2102 and B-2101 from the States a few years ago before postage prices sky-rocketed!!!

Original internals

After recapping

Bottom view

Caps used include Panasonic ECA and FC, Wima, silver mica, EPCOS and OSCON.


Update - 24Mar2012

Took the C-2102 out to partner the B-2101. Was initially disappointed by it's performance - sounded reserved and the high's did not flow naturally.

Hence I replaced the OSCON with a Nichicon on the motherboard. Replaced the WIMA 0.022uF at C26 with a Russian Paper-In-Oil (PIO) 0.047uF (back to original value) as it is in a tonal ladder.

Close-up of motherboard area with changes

In addition, removed the previous bypass under the motherboard and place a Philips BC 0.026uF bypass to C26 as the highs required a slight adjustment.

The results in a word - WOW!!!

Quad 303 (2nd unit)

Found the following pix(s) of my 2nd Quad 303 which was recapped and re-biased in 2009. Though it would be interesting to post them. 

I acquired a 2nd Quad 303 to enable bi-amping using my Quad 33 and FM3.

I tested the unit after purchase and it was functional but with a slightly lower volume on the right channel.

When I open up the internals, I was shocked (!!!) and surprised it was still functional (Hint: Right channel board)

The are pix of the original unit before it was recapped. Will add pix(s) of the recapped unit once I take it out from storage.

Overview

PSU board

Right channel board with broken capacitor!!!

Left channel board

The resultant unit after recapping can be viewed at http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2010/12/quad-303-after-recapping-2nd-unit.html

Marantz CDA-94

Another rare DAC from my collection, the well known partner for the well beloved CD-94 - the Marantz CDA-94. The DAC chip deployed is the infamous Philips TDA1541.

Front

There is much more information on the unit at http://www.thevintageknob.org/MARANTZ/CDA94/CDA94.html and http://www.marantzphilips.nl/marantz_cda94_d_a_converter/

The unit really sounded sickly when I acquired it.

Once recap with quality components though-out (Wima, OSCON, Panasonic  FC, Stargets, etc),  sounds really analog. My good friend (who bought my tuned Sansui AU-4400) heard the unit after I recapped it (in 2009) via the Naim Nait 1 though it was a tube DAC and wanted to get one for himself!!! He was extremely disappointed once he discovered the CDA-94 is extremely rare in the used market.

After recap

Main DAC board with dedicated PSU section

PSU board for all other motherboards

Audiolab 8000T

Deltec PDM1 (before PDM 1.2)

Audiolab 8000A (serial number with 'F')

The Audiolab 8000A's with the alphabet 'F' in the serial number were the last production batch before Audiolab was sold to Tag McLaren.

I was lucky enough to secure a unit from a seller who lived down the road!!!. After doing so, I sold my British made Audiolab 8000S (serial number with  'E') and 8000A (serial number with 'D').

The newer 8000A still sounded "a bit raw" and less polish than the higher end units in my collection. Hence I decided to recap the unit using better quality parts, as well as performing some minor tweaking along the way.

My unit with 'F' in s/n

Original

The following pix was taken after the work was done using OSCON, Wima, Panasonic FC and ECA, as well as silver mica's.

Before Wima's inserted into pre-amp section was substituted with silver mica's 

This is what's under the big ribbon cable - the pre-amp section.

After the four silver mica's were inserted

The left side (from front) casing of the unit runs warm as the phono section has it's own voltage regulators which uses the left side of the internal casing as heat sink. I attached two heatsinks to the side to help reduce heat levels.

Took the opportunity to capture a 30second video to show the results, using my basic digital camera. The video was captured in MOV format and has not been modified in any manner of form - direct from the digicam to the PC and uploaded to the blog. 

 

Was quite impressed by the ability of the basic digicam, although my daughter says it does not do justice to the real setup.

Philips Pronto programmable touch screen remote

This is the Pronto I use to control the various units in my collection ... most useful as I do not have to hunt high  and low for the originals when I take a unit from storage to listen. It is seen in it's cradle which functions as a charger as well.

Screen for Audiolab 8000CDM

Pronto charging in cradle

I programmed and customised the Pronto for the Philips CDP, Meridians, Denon HT units, TV, VCR, etc.

The model was reviewed at http://www.remotecentral.com/tsu3000/index.html and the Philips support website is at http://www.pronto.philips.com/

Philips CD-650 (***Update#2***)

The CD650 is probably my favourite TDA1541 chipset CDP.  I have two such units - the other unit is literally  NOS!! I sold my CD880 and kept the CD650!!!

I had to recap the unit after the image produced was leaning towards the left (from front) - common issue for old Philips-based CDP(s). I had several owned a number of other Philips based CDP's (Philips CD880, 670, 460, 640, 624, 634, 482, 931, AK601; Marantz CD52 Mk1, CD52 Mk2; Mission PCM 4000, 7000) and this always happens after 10yrs of usage. 

Only the electrolytic capacitors were swap out for better quality ones - no reclocking or opamp change necessary. The only exception were four of the Philips blue poly caps which were salvaged from my dead Mission PCM 7000, swap out for the silver coloured ones in the original from the opamp area e.g 1n and 2n4.  You can see the changed capacitors in the following pix.

                                        

SK Fong heard the unit as well when he was visiting and was quite impressed - by it's condition as well as sonic qualities after the recapping. And yes it does look like it was taken out the box and this is 1986 ...

I even demo picking up the unit and shaking it vertically as well as horizontally while a CD was being played - you would not heard any skips etc aka as if it was place on a iso-platform. That's 1980's quality for you!!! 

Someone else I know with a Marantz CD50 had to place the unit on a self-made iso-platform using springs to produce similar results.

Update#1

I realised I did not mention the following. I used a Philips BC 0.027uF (blue square poly) as bypass for each of the Nichicon Muse. This was done to permit the high frequencies thru.

28Mar2011 - Update#2

Uploaded the brochure cover for the unit as these are scare on the internet.

Audiolab 8000CDM

Here is the perfect partner for the 8000DAC, the 8000CDM (a bit dusty as just taken out from storage).

CDM and DAC playing a CD recorded with EQ

In theory the "swap-out" should not have been necessary as a transport's sole purpose in life was to read the CD best it could and provide the output in digital form e.g binary 1 and 0's. Binary "1" means high, binary "0" is low. There is not suppose to be any levels of quality in sound relating to the "1" and "0"'s. The DAC then converts the digital signal to analogue signal for us to hear.

Errr ... I found much difference after the swap out was done.

Here's the front view of the 8000CDM after some of the internals were swap out.

Top front view

Bottom view

Followed by the view from the top. Have added a heatsink to the voltage regulator transistor at the back of the unit as it ran hot - not sure why they was no heatsink on it in the 1st place.

Lastly the close-up of the signal processing area which is located behind of the CD transport mechanism. Higher quality components used are OSCON, Wima, EPCOS and silver mica's as well as Panasonic ECA and Rubycon capacitors. Reclocking should not be necessary as there are IC's for PLL in this area.

View the blog for my Audiolab 8000A at http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2010/09/audiolab-8000a-serial-number-with-f.html to see and hear how the units perform together.

Meridian 606

My trusty Meridian DAC was lacking in bass when compared to the past. The 602 is the transport paired to the 606.

Normally DAC's are not demanding in terms of current requirement (unless extremely old). Hence I recapped only the electrolytic capacitors related to the power portions on the PSU board (not shown) as well the DAC board. The caps in question are the five from the bottom half of the board - up to width of the two sets of ribbon cables.

DAC board

Once done, the good ol'bass was back!!!

602 with companion 606

Note:
The 606 has no standby mode since it was designed to be left on for optimum performance.

Meridian 204

The Meridian 204 tuner needs no introduction. It is a respectable sounding tuner with good reviews on the net. One such example can be sampled at http://www.fmtunerinfo.com/reviewsM-N.html#meridian

201 and 204 in stand-by mode

Rear of 204

Due to age, the battery on the main tuner board was leaking and there was a thin layer of "sticky" dark green slime around it - can't really see from the pix. The battery is the Varta with a '+' sign between the Nichicon capacitors.

When I rung the local agent, they quoted $200!!! to service the unit aka replace the battery and clean-up the "slime"! I though it was steep, way WAY steep for such a simple job.

Hence I decided to change the old battery and take the opportunity to recap the electrolytics myself.

After some scouting around, I manage to locate the following replacement from a supplier at Sim Lim Tower for about $20.

Works like a charm ... had to use contact cleaners to gently clear up the "slime". Otherwise the motherboard could be rendered useless after a while.

Sorry did not take a pix of the unit after completing the job.

Will update with more more pix(s) of the unit in action once I have time to reconfigure the 204 and setup the entire Meridian set which currentlycomprises of the 201/204/209/602/606/557 and A500

Sansui AU-9900A (***Updated***)

The Sansui AU-9900A is one of all time favourite units. It is know as the AU-10000 in Japan. You can view many details pixs of the unit at the AMP8 (Japanese) site.

Unknown to many Sansui fans, the 9900A is one of the rare Class-A units produced by Sansui. I managed to locate the service manual which confirms via 50mV setting via adjustment of the trimmers on the main driver board.

I was not aware of the above until I  managed to get a unit from eBay and paid for postage from the US. I initially though I bought a faulty unit when it was running warm and then hot!!! Had to get a dedicated fan to suck the hot air out before the exterior of the units was reasonable to touch!!! Unfortunately the fan is a little noisy ... (need to obtain a less noisy fan)

This is the pix under the covers.

You can see the original capacitors (some deformed) on the PSU board below. Please be aware of the bi-polar caps on the power board.

This is the original pre-amp driver board. Before re-cap, you could heard some raw-ness in the reproduction, especially on the high frequences.

Original pre-amp board

Pre-amp board after re-cap

The original AU9900A sounded so good I sold my AU-20000 (and kept the 9900A). The AU20000 was considered by many to be the top of the line integrated amp from Sansui!!!

The following is the pix of the main driver board after it was recapped. Took the opportunity to swap out some cheaper parts with better quality ones.

Audiolab 8000DAC (###Updated###)

The British made Audiolab 8000DAC is well loved for it's warm and natural sound.

DAC and CDM playing CD recorded with EQ

According to various documentation on the net, the Philips TDA1547 is the heart of the unit - not able to see the actual chip as hidden by the Audiolab cover on the motherboard (see below).

Decided to recapped the unit a while back (before creating this blog) as it was taking atleast an hour to warm up and sound decent. Volume before the recapping was very low as well - really sounded tired.

Took the opportunity to do some part replacements along the way as the unit had a treble and bass roll-off when I was listening to it using my Accuphase and Meridians (later on those).

Anyway, the pix below is the resultant of my efforts.

I am using the 8000DAC with the 8000CDM (black tray), 8000T and 8000A (all true Brits). Such 8000A's were the last of the true Audiolabs with "F" in the S/N (aka before sold to TagMcLaren).

From top

From bottom

And I added a few heatsinks to the power regulators to reduce heat levels as well. In addition, two silver mica's were added as by-pass to the non-EC capacitors.

View the blog for my Audiolab 8000A at http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2010/09/audiolab-8000a-serial-number-with-f.html to see and hear how the units perform together.

3Nov2012

Recapped the EC in the PLL control section of the DAC located at the bottom LHS of the unit - 4*100uf 35V and a 47uF 16V, as the power supply filter to the LM317 could be better. Now working fine again.