Front |
Rear |
Since completing and tweaking the Lite LS-29 (clone of the X10), though it would be interesting to compare the stock X10D vs the tweaked LS-29 @ http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2010/11/diy-tube-buffer.html
Stock PCB |
The stock X10D uses Philips 6922 valves and produces a rich mid, nice high with a lean low after power-on. About 15-30min later, the bass becames fuller but I find the high can be just a tad brighter than an actual presentation should be. The X10D seem to have a slight roughness around the edge as well, particularly on voices. I was using a gold CD recording of a singer whom I heard during a live performance for comparison.
The LS-29 produces a more authoritative low and "richer" high while retaining the rich mid of the X10D. The reproduction of the LS-29 was more natural.
Finally decided to recap using lessons learnt from the LS-29.
Recapped PCB |
Upon power on there was a immediate bandwidth improvement, compared to the stock X10D which was more reserve in presentation. Voices were now more natural and realistic.
After a week or so, decided to change the 0.22uF Wima(s) to the older MKS-C 0.33uF in the audio section. Initially sounded overly bassey. After a couple of weeks, it's sounding very close to my Tubelog when performing A-B comparisons - with a bit more HF extension, maybe due to the use of silver mica's in th output stage.
Update - 18Aug2011
Finally swapped the Philips 6922 with the Russian 6N23P-EV. Reproduction clarity improved.
friend, sorry for not reading your blog in ascending order... anyway i bought (another) x-10d from a friend too together with his Thorens TD150m2. anyway his has someone mod-ed and much heavier as compare with mine. he opened it up and show me and was told some nice vintage tubes and some oil thingy capacitors. i bring over for you see see okie. cheers,
ReplyDeleteHi SK,
ReplyDeleteNo worries call me once you are back
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ReplyDeleteHi. Fascinated to read about your X-10D experiments. I have just bought one to go between my X-ACT and my Roksan K3 amp. It sounds pretty good but I am interested in maybe upgrading the valves. However, I am unsure how to get inside the casing without damaging something! I undid the two screws at the rear and tried gently to slide the PCB out but it seemed to be held by something after a couple of inches. I bottled out and slid it all back (connecting the earth tag as I went). Can you help me understand how to get inside the unit safely? Also, what valves would you recommend as the best upgrade overall? Many thanks. Ian
ReplyDeleteYour attempt was probably held by the LED cable at the opposite end... need to open up both ends, watch for the LED & cable at the "head", before removing the "tail" section.
DeleteQuais as melhores válvulas para o X-10D
ReplyDeleteEveryone has their own favourite(s)
DeletePretendo comprar um Musical fidelity X-10D. Ou um kit original Musical fidelity x-10d.agradeco contato para o meu e-mail americolouro1960@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteUSE o Google tradutor SFF tankiou
Procuro um musical fidelity x-10D em excelente estado de conservação e funcionamento.. alguém tem para venda.. americolouro1960@gmail.com
ReplyDelete