MyOldVintageHifi
MyOldVintageHifi is about my hobby and passion to restore old vintage hifi gear to their former glory (where possible) for personal enjoyment.
UPDATE - Comments can now be added without moderation
Thursday, July 1, 2021
TIP - Effective USB powered FM signal amplifier
Blue-tooth receiver with audio player and ESS DAC
Just received my new Trasam DAC2PRO earlier this week.
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Trasam DAC2PRO (silver) directly connected to the Sansui B-2101 amplifier |
The DAC2PRO provides a blue-tooth upgrade to my existing hifi setup with RC and remote volume control.
In addition, the unit has the ability to playback FLAC, MP3, WAV, M4A encoded audio via a ESS based DAC. The on-board DAC processes input received via a soft selector for COAX, OPT and Blue-tooth😑.
I ordered a unit with audio quality components from the Chinese eBay equivalent - came with black colour Nichicon EC capacitors on the power circuits and a OracleII-02 op-amp on a DIP-8 mount (phew!). Rest of the components are SMD types.
Was quite disappointed there was no MUSES op-amp provided with the unit. Hence I ordered a MUSES-8820 and 8920 as these are quite affordable nowadays as these have been superseded by the newer (and more expensive) MUSES-01 and 02.
Will update with more pix(s) and feedback of the sonics with the Oracle vs the older MUSES op-amps once I have the opportunity to perform the review.
In the meantime, I will have a play with my new toy 1st....😀
Tuesday, May 18, 2021
Changing OP-Amp(s) on the DIY TDA1541A DAC (***Update***)
Since spending more time online nowadays (due to COVID resurgent worldwide), I chance upon some good deals for better OP-Amp(s) from overseas. This was a good opportunity to swap-out the default NE5534P on my DIY TDA1541A DAC with USB interface, as I have (more or less) done all I can with capacitor replacements - not in the blog but had swap out the output capacitors for Elna Stargates since the last post for the DIY DAC.
Have decided I was not going to spend silly amounts on buying blackcaps, silver cabling or anything fancy of that sort since I wanted to see how far I can improve the unit on a budget. So will not splash out on Burson op-amps, MUSES-03 or alike.
Thus have ordered some Philips NE5534P, JRC 5534 and OPA604AP.
Will update once I received the goodies and can do some swap-outs tests.
21Jun2021
Received the above op-amps and did the swap tests.
Ti NE5534 The default which came with the kit. My personal take is that it was the "Jack of all trades" but "Master of None" with a skewed HF reproduction and bass which was not flabby nor tight.
JRC NE5534 The minimalist choice. Has better overall balance than the Ti but came with a "English"-like reserve. Again nothing really wrong but did not excel in any particular area(s).
Philips NE5534 Best way to describe this would be to say it's alike the "Toyota Corolla" of 5534(s). Prefer it over the previous version of 5534(s) but know I could get a better replacement.
BB OPA604AP Initially the HF sounded thin with non-existant LF. After a couple of days usage, the sound stage surfaced. After another few more days, the most astonishing thing happened - the DIY DAC now sounds pretty close (after the unit has warmed up) to my Meridian 602 when performing an A-B comparison, with a slight difference in the output volume during the A-B comparisons.
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OPA604AP x 4 on the DIY DAC PCB |
Yup, left the OPA604AP(s) in-place ....😁
Saturday, October 3, 2020
Proof-of-Concept (POC) of another alternate CD transport (***Update***)
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Old Sharp VCR with TOSLINK for audio output |
I obtained the old Sharp DV-NC80 from a neighbour who converted to using a cable video streaming service. The unit had a CD/DVD player with TOSLINK output and I was curious as to it's viability as a transport.
Hence I tried using the Sharp as a transport paired to the Audiolab 8000DAC. Much to my surprised, the resultant audio reproduction was clean and the Sharp performed much better than the Samsung DVD player when used it as a CD transport!!! Does sound pretty decent when amplification is via the EL34 integrated valve amplifier pushing the DIY LS 3/5A with AB1.
As there was no remote, I could only use the Sharp to play a CD end-to-end. Due to it's age, I do not think the Sharp will last for many more years so will not search for it's RC and just enjoy it while I can.
UPDATE #1 - 11Nov2020
Out of curiosity I tried a putting some songs on a CD-RW and stuck that into the Sharp - much to my surprise (again), it played without issues....
Saturday, August 1, 2020
Pioneer F-223
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Front view of Pioneer F-223 with main portion of test cable for antenna on top of unit |
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View of internals from the top |
Was surprised the F-223 was "Made in Japan" (on the label, on the back of the tuner). Not much luck Google-ing for additional information or checking FMTUNERINFO but did managed to locate the service manual at HIFIengine.
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F-223 Made in Japan |
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Voltage selector on the bottom of unit, towards the front as indicated by arrow |
The F-223 has the looks of an average tuner for the era. Extremely easy to use without the necessity to go thru the manual 1st. A big bonus of the F-223 is the large number of memory storage for stations eg 24 per band. After a station has been detected, you need to press MEMORY followed by a storage location before the details will be kept.
Was considering recapping the unit but discovered the capacitors on the audio path (red-line in the service manual schematics) had been recapped using Panasonic equivalents when the rest of the unit had used the old fashion ELNA(s) throughout.
The tuner seem to be pretty good at picking up the signals of the main stations easily via the AUTO-TUNE facility using nothing more than a short piece of wire - see pix. It did not pickup stations such as 89.3FM but to be fair, I was just performing an initial test and it was not connected to a proper antenna setup. Believe the F-223 would perform much better if I had done so.
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Using a short piece of cable for initial FM tuner testing |
Surprisingly a pretty good unit which just works with above average performance.
Wednesday, July 1, 2020
Follow-up of DIY LS 3/5a (*** Update-1***)
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Delivered with the solid rectangle to protect the "O" |
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Attached to the DIY Ls 3/5a without adhesive - corners of the rectangle are held by the velcro on the LS 3/5a baffle |
The O-rectangles "clean-up" (not clear-up) errant sound which were dispersing to side-way(s), resulting in pretty much total silence between songs and quiet passages👍👍👍
Monday, June 1, 2020
TIP - Internet radio for newbies
Over 30,000 Stations Worldwide. For free
Sunday, May 3, 2020
Tips for implementing a secure Mesh WIFI setup
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From Google ... why re-invent the wheel? |
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Image CUT&PASTE from TP-LINK |
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CUT&PASTE from Google |
NOTE - Some MESH WIFI routers will need to be setup in Bridge Mode in order to function properly when configured as per the last pix
Sunday, December 1, 2019
Obsession with Digital-to-Analogue (DAC) converters?
Tuesday, October 1, 2019
Another low cost DIY tube buffer kit (***Update***)
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Initial kit purchased |
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Similar layout to the previous kit but with more space for swapping the critical capacitors |
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Uses non-mainstream EC capacitors on the PCB |
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The default 6J3 purchased with the kit |
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Assembled kit in-action |
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6J3 (LHS) vs 5654W (RHS) |
Sunday, September 1, 2019
Low cost DIY tube pre-amp / buffer kit
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The completed DIY unit mounted using magnetic feets on top of a cheap DVD player |
Received the DIY kit with all parts as per advertised which does not include the 12VAC 0.8-1A power adapter, potentiometer knob, mounting feet nor the plastic casing.
The good news is the PCB is well adorned with marking of component position and values. And the potentiometer has a built-in ON/OFF switch.
Bad news is the PCB is extremely compact, with most of the critical components located very close to the others. Would help if you used a soldering iron with a fine or small tip.
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Close-up of the DIY kit; 2 of the audio path critcal capacitor on top with the other 2 on the bottom side of the PCB (not visible) |
One minor minus point is that the potentiometer does not came with a knob and volume at the lowest setting was not balanced. Hence once switch on, you need to turn the volume up slowly until you could hear a balance volume on both LHS & RHS speakers.
Another minor minus point is that there were no labelling for the INPUT and OUTPUT terminals on the PCB or the optional casing. It's only stated on the instruction sheet (provided in Chinese), with schematic of the PCB. The design uses the X10-D methodology for doubling the input voltage but implemented for a lower cost 7-pin valve instead.
The major minus point is the location and available space for the 4 critical capacitors on the audio path - 2 for input and 2 for output. Due to the severe space restrictions, your choice of capacitors are severely limited by physical size, lead length and available values (if you wish to keep everything on the PCB). In addition, the compact PCB makes swapping capacitors a "pain in the neck".
How does the default kit sound when used as a tube buffer?
Reproduction is surprisingly clear with good details BUT with a heavy HF bias. The default Chinese 6J1 provided seem to be adequate for the moment.
Am still performing substitutions and listening to the new components (once they have settled) on the audio critical paths. Once done, will then decide if the supplied Chinese 6J1 x 2 should be swap out.
Post to be updated at a later date.
Thursday, August 1, 2019
DIY - possible simple solution for deteriorating sound from the channel of a Leak integrated amp
General layout of the integrated Leak amplifiers, with the L&R boards on the LHS of the unit |
Since my unit had issues with only the RHS channel, I concentrated on the two boards with "R" on the top of the grey plastic bar. To access the boards, you need to gently lift the plastic bar (which is held down by a gentle spring).
I pulled only the "R" boards from the motherboard and sprayed a little contact cleaner into the board cradle of the motherboard. Then returned the boards to their cradle and return the grey plastic strip onto it's grooves - the way I found them.
Left the unit alone for about 30min or so before restoring all the connections ... all's well again!😄
So before you head out to visit the repair shop for a similar issue, give the above a go 1st.😉
Monday, July 1, 2019
Revisiting Marantz CDA-94 - Transformer failed (again)
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L001 replaced with the blue OEM transformer |
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Replacement transformer on mounting PCB attached to chassis bracket using plastic screw with additional washer between PCB and the chassis mounting bracket |
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Close-up of the replacement transformer and cabling |
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"Center tap" technique hookup at terminator end; fuses after the termination point upgraded from 500mA to 750mA |
Please note the cabling used for the replacement transformer were salvaged from it's dead Noratel predecessor.
The CDA-94 back in business again ... now considering procurement of some heatsinks for the opamps, TDA1541A and the SAA7220 chips.
Saturday, June 1, 2019
Add-on heatsinks for Audiolab 8000A
The external casing of the 8000A was running quite warm in the local tropical weather. Hence I search for suitably large piece of heatsink to assist with heat dissipation - inspired by the design of the casing on my long ago Musical Fidelity X1A.
After checking a number of websites, I had to give up my initial idea of acquiring a single largish heatsink. Discovered that could became a rather costly exercise, with possibly pricey postage too!
About a week later, I came across a PRC website which had some attractive looking heatsinks on offer but these were smaller than what I had in-mind. Then the idea hit me - I could arrange several of these smaller heatsink(s) in such a manner that they could assist with heat dissipation from the critical areas of the 8000A, as if a single large piece of heatsink was deployed.
Each heatsink is anodized aluminium and measuring 150mm x 70mm x 11mm. Used 6 of these heatsinks and arranged them (as per pix) with a spacing of 1-3mm between them. As most of the heat on the external casing were from the LHS of the 8000A, I arranged the heatsinks on the LHS closer to it's neighbour vs those on the RHS.
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8000A with several add-on heatsinks |
Aesthetically pleasing too, no complaints from the boss ... yet😁
Wednesday, May 1, 2019
Minor maintenance of a Quad 33 (on behalf)
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Initial testing after minor maintainence |
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New EC caps on the PSU |
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"Newer" poly(s) on the DISC board |
Friday, February 1, 2019
Alternate analogue FM reception for the living room (***Update#2a***)
First a background of the change in the existing setup.
In Singapore, most of the population (>90%) live in a Housing Development Board (HDB) flat aka government flat. Traditionally there would be standard antenna access points for FM and TV in every unit which are clearly marked in the living room. These antenna access point were supposed to be connected to the antenna at the top of every HDB building.
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Traditional FM & TV antenna connector in HDB flats |
On the Sunday morning of 6Jan2019, all I was able to hear was static from the FM radio via the access point marked FM in the living room.
When I contacted the authorities the next working day, I was informed the reported service disruption in my apartment was due to the withdrawal of all cable services by the telco Starhub. Only catch was I did not subscribing to any services from Starhub at the present time.
Hence when I visited several electronics DIY shops in the Sim Lim Tower and Sim Lim Square area, the shops informed many experience the same issue as myself. Thus indoor FM antennas and boosters😵 were flying off the shelves!
Prices were better online and I ordered a set. While awaiting the delivery, I had to use a DIY FM antenna - basically just hookup a 3m cable to the antenna socket of my Kenwood KT-5020. It's doing a decent job for the station I wanted to listen to but did not fare well for distant stations.
The order is scheduled to be delivered tonight. Will update once I have time to setup the item(s). For non-Asian visitors, this is a very busy period in the Far East as it's Chinese New Year week eg our version of Christmas😄!
Apologies for the delay for this month's post😞
Update (11Feb2019)
I purchased the following package online which includes a signal amplifier and a "multi-purpose antenna" (according to the seller's website). The signal amplifier provides 20dB boost and is powered using a typical USB phone charger - great for making reception possible in "poor areas".
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Signal amplifier and "multi-purpose" antenna purchased online |
Assembly of the components is "easy as 1--2-3" and all that was required was a USB charger.
Unfortunately the new components did not deliver a complete solution. Signal strength on the tuner is full but no stereo light on the tuner.
Hence I bought the indoor antenna originally recommended by a number of stores, the Daiyo EU-1703.

I then proceeded to test various combinations to determine which would provide the best reception - DIY antenna (with/out signal booster), digital antenna (with/out signal booster), and Daiyo antenna (with/out signal booster).
Best combination seem to be pairing the signal booster with the Daiyo antenna. Not the perfect solution as was able to receive most of the available stations with high signal strength, and, about 90%+ in stereo.
Luckily my favourite stations were not among the low number of casualties😀
Update#2 (23Mar2019)
This diagram explains why I can no longer use the traditional designated FM and TV ports in my apartment. Starhub was using them (aka SCV port in the pix) as their "new transfer facility". Don't the residents get any say about this?

Tuesday, January 1, 2019
JVC XL-MV33 (Part-2)
My skeptical friend finally decided to get his toes wet with minor recapping on the MV33 to improve reproduction.
Upon reviewing the PCB with the output RCA connectors ... I found some typical Japanese poly capacitors encase in a yellow plastic casing. These type of poly capacitors were common in Japanese brand products from the 1980-1990's (see my past article on them) and are most likely the culprits of the audio reproduction barrier - not all need to be swap out unless they are in the audio pathways.
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Original output PCB |
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Part of output schematic for MV33 audio reproduction |
The MV33 schematic from HifiEngine confirms only the ELNA EC (47uF 50V) and the yellow encased poly (1500pF) are on the audio pathway between the JRC OPAMP and the RCA outputs. The 220pF capacitors on the schematics were not present on the PCB - replaced by resistors.
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ELNA EC and the Japanese poly swapped out |
For the first 30mins after the swap, voices were high pitched with the rest of the material sounding a little off-pitch. Thereafter the reproduction was much improved with the HF(s) sounding more natural and precise.
Even so, the overall presentation seem incomplete ... as if there was still some fog in the area. Next the ELNA EC(s) were replaced with audiophile grade Nichicon MUSE and a bypass ... the presentation improved quite a lot - reproduction was now much cleaner and begin to sound more like a decent CD player.
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PCB after capacitor swap-outs |
As my friend was not adventurous, we did not proceed any further. He wanted to enjoy the new improvements for the time being.
Saturday, December 1, 2018
Alternative universal RC
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RC app main screen on smartphone |
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Initial screen to add a new device |
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Mi App generic screen for the LG-V522P |
Thursday, November 1, 2018
Another budget CD source - LG DV522P
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No display with only LED to indicate piower-on |
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Only basic RCA outputs on rear |
Monday, October 1, 2018
Technics RS-M02
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Pix from VintageTechnics |
Apologies for the pix from the internet as it's kind'of small and can be difficult to locate in the storeroom (aka the blackhole!!). Will update with pix of the internals once I came across the little critter.
Think of the RS-M02 as a miniaturized RS-M65 without the fine bias and headphone output volume controls but was upgraded for Metal Oxide tapes. Hence the RS-M02 has all the performance of a high-end Technics cassette deck, for the Concise Series.
Saturday, September 1, 2018
Celestion SL-6s
In the late 1980's I literally fell "head-over-heels" for the Celestion SL-6 after listening to a pair at my friend's place in NZ.
By the time I scaped enough to buy a pair with a proper amplifier for them, the SL-6 was no longer available and had been replaced by the SL-6s. Hence I bought a pair of SL-6s instead, with the metal sand filled stands from the local NZ agent via the home based hifi dealer at the shore (aka North Shore to Aucklanders).
I still own that pair of SL-6s but have not used them since about 2006. Hence I enclosed pixs from the net till I have the urge to drag them out for a spin.
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Pix of the SL6s from the internet |
As there are so many articles and reviews on the SL6s, there is no need to repeat the obvious. I will just add on item(s) I discovered along the years of ownership.
I always admired the beautiful wooden finish as the bark rings would flow seamlessly from one panel to another, on each of the speakers. Many a visitors who's seen the pair always pester for a sale (told them if you want them, compensate me for my loss as I never put them up for sale)... still have them, these are REAL KEEPERS!
From memory the SL6s require plenty of grunt to be be driven properly, rather than Watts. Once so, they are real pleasers. The bass deficiency can be addressed using a active sub (suitable for hifi not HT). If I remember correctly, the active sub need to be set to somewhere in the region of 125-150Hz with volume just about 1-o'clock - TBC once I dig out the sub as well!!!
For instance, I was using the SL6s with a Sansui AU-555 before putting them into storage. Watts was not so much the issue as grunt. The AU-555 is rated as 20W per channel with only a Damping Factor of 12. Many advise using an amp of atleast 50-60W for the task. Yet, the Sansui AU-555 could drive the SL6s beautifully to decent volumes with the volume knob at 10 o'clock and/or above. No issues doing so for atleast 8hrs a day on the weekends.
Another surprise was when I swap out the SL6s (86dB) with the Meridian A500 (89dB) - the output volume remained roughly the same.
Hands getting itchy now since this bring backs bloody fond memories of my years spend with the SL6s ...
Wednesday, August 1, 2018
Carver C-2 pre with M-200t power amp
Both the pre and power amplifier had an external pewter finish on the front plate which was pleasant "eye candy".
The C-2 pre-amp performance was about average, not the best at what it does but the sonic results were acceptable. The four square ON-OFF toggle switches provided quite a flimsy feel. Usually left the C-2 in tonal bypass mode as I did not like the sonic signature from them.
I think the M-200t power amplifier was the better half of the combination with enough grunt to drive the Celestion SL6s decently. When place into mono-block mode, the M-200t truly sounds amazing! My major complaint were the el-cheapo clip-in speaker cable connectors. They could have used slightly better speaker connectors. Sigh ... could not afford 2 of these power amplifiers at the time ....
I enclosed the following pix(s) from Googling the internet as I did not have any pix(s) of my units,
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Pix on internet via Googling - front |
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Pix on internet via Googling - rear of the units |
Sold the combination Carver pre and power amplifier in the Wellington area before heading off overseas to take up a MNC job offer in late 2000. Not much of a choice then as the NZ job market was not great at the time ...