Poly's normally replaced

Just realised I have never included the pix of the poly's I normally replace e.g from the pre-amp sections, since they were the source of the off-tune reproductions.

"Bad"on left, acceptable on right

The ones I found to be "bad" (aka off-tune) are those on the left in the above pix e.g green and creamish poly.

The yellow poly's on the right are acceptable but I find them to be "warmish" with slight degradation to the higher frequencies. I normally re-use these as by-pass(s) with good results.

Sony CDP-333ESA

The remote capable 333ESA is a well build, 220~240V unit which weights about 12kg.

This CDP was recapped a while back after my friend puchased it on my behalf overseas. Hence apologies as I do not have the original pix of the internals.

CDP with Tubalog via TOS link

Rear

On the rear, the unit has a pair of fixed and another pair of variable outputs. Digital output is via TOS link only.

In stock form the unit portrait voices well in a warm conveying manner, unfortunately at the expense of background details. The background details were push back and well "veil-ed".

The previous owner installed a EMI filter but left it un-earth to the chasis. To rectify the issue, I placed a piece of old leather under the filter to isolate it from the chasis - see below.

Power filter with insulation

I recapped the audio section of the board only, leaving the power filter caps in-place since these seem to be in good condition and more than adequate for a CDP.

To remove the veil from the background details after initial recapping, I upsized 4x0.1uF green poly(s) in the audio path with 0.22uF Wima(s) aka the medium sized Wima's in the pix. In addition, I upsized the two capacitors in the top left (rear view) from 10uF to 22uF to "mellow-nise" the reproduction. Electrolytics were replaced using Panasonic ECA/FC, Nichicon Gold and Rubycon of the same values. Naturally the better components are placed in the audio section of the board.

Top view

View of motherboard from rear

The results?

A past visitor who was familiar with the Sony ES range of CDP(s) was pleasantly surprised at the performance and level of detail my 333ESA was delivering since he knew stock non-X7 models could not  deliver the level of detail and warmth he was hearing! He is correct as my X7ESD is superb in many pleasing ways - saving the best for a future post ...(bloody heavy too!!!)

Sound Dynamics THS-1000

This is my tiny dual-purpose 10in sub-woofer rated 100W RMS with peak of 400W. The unit has a solid built quality and weight over 10kg. It is my the only other non-British made (Canada) speaker in my collection.

The THS-1000 was originally purchased for my home theatre system which comprised of a Denon A1D, TU-1500 and DVD-2900.

Front

Without cover

Back

Marantz PM-45

This little known Marantz was once What Hifi Stereo of the Year 1988 (http://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/marantz_award_winning_products_list_1984-2003/)

Front

Rear

Rated at a reasonable 50W RMS per channel into 8ohms, it does pack quite a punch and is barely warm even after continously use for 12hrs! Details specs are available at http://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/?strPage=Info&strBrand=Marantz&strType=Marantz_pm45&blnSefURL=true

The original unit sounds sweet with good details and respectable bass. However my unit required about an hour of running in before the sweetness appears. And there is the off-tone issue as per my original Luxman and Audiolab. Hence it was time to recap.

After I replaced the electrolytics on the power amplifier board, I proceeded to replace the dark green ploy caps in the pre-amp section (aka previously middle of the pix below)  with EPCOS (blue) poly of the same values. That did the job!

From top

Recapping was an easy process as all components are easily accessible with the base plate removed.

The PM-45 is a nicely balanced unit altogether!

Quad FM-3 (2nd unit)

The FM-3 is a simplistic looking FM only tuner which accompanies the Quad 33 and 303.

Front

Even so do not be deceived by the simplistic looks. It's a very nice sounding FM tuner and easily betters my Sansui TU-D99X (rated at no#30 at FMTUNERINFO). I would dare say it cames pretty close to the performance of my Meridian 201 - a very nice tuner as well.

Rear view

Power is provided via Bulgin plug and output via the British traditional socket e.g 5-pin DIN. Aerial can be connected via a Quad 3-pin connector or the more popular 75ohm aerial socket.

There is an adjust for fine tuning but I hardly use it. It maybe useful when tuning for distant or weak stations.

Top

After recapping the PSU filters, I changed some of the poly(s) with Wima(s). There were minor improvements, most noticable are the headroom improvement and clearity of the reproduction.

Please note I did not perform any additional changes on my 1st FM3 (soon to came), except to replace the 3 electrolytic caps.  My 1st FM3 has gold-plated pins on the MPX IC whilst the 2nd does not.

Quad Pro-63 (ESL)

Though largely based upon the successful ESL-63, the Quad Pro-63 was created according to Philips Recording Studio specifications in Europe.

Most noticable differences are the use of steel instead of aluminium for support and handles on sides. Power handling is about 100-150W. Each speaker weights about 16kg. I was not able to locate the sensitivity for the speaker on any documentation but estimate it to be about 78dB or79dB - losely based upon the volume dial to achieve approximate volume from my SL6S.

Side view

From rear

The Pro-63 are not easy speakers to drive. Long ago I owned a Pioneer A400X which was able to drive the SL6S effortlessly. However when I transferred the speaker cables from the SL6S to the PRO63, there was no sound when the volume was at 9 o'clock??? Initially I though either the PRO63 or the A400X had developed an issue. I decided to slowly turn the A400X volume until I could hear something. Music was finally audioble at about 2 o'clock!!!

The Quad ESL(s) are well-known for superb and realistic imaging but poor bass. I normally use the Sound Dynamics THS-1000 subwoofer (100W)  to accompany the Pro-63 (and SL6S).

My Pro-63 are placed on the non-Quad stands which were design with a gently tilt to project the image upward.

I was lucky enough to obtained the pair from a well-off gentleman who had several pairs of Pro-63 in his home. The serial number is 29xxx and estimated to be from about 1988.

Sugden P51

Yes I finally located the P51 in the storeroom!!!

The P51 is the power amp which accompanies the C51 pre.

Weighing about 10kg, the unit is able to deliver 50W RMS per channel and had the innovative feature of being able to be converted into a mono-block with the flick of a switch (for the 60's).

The P51 is known to be able to drive extremely demanding loads and many often used them with ESL(s).

In addition, the C51-P51 pair was often the reference set for many reviewers in the late 60's and early 70's.

Front

Back

Top

Right side

Left side

The last time I fired up the C51 with P51, reproduction clearity was startling - when you consider the age of the unit.

Need to locate the special DIN cable which came with it ... one of the joys of having too many units and managing the misc cablings for them!!!

Speaker cables I am using

Please note I understand there are many opinions and preferences in this area. I am not implying in any manner or form, if any make or model of speaker cables is better than the other, or, even attempting to rate them. 

I am only advising this is what I am using to connect the various units in my collection of speakers and amps aka this is what works for me

The next question my visitors frequently ask after checking out my various speakers are (pix in Mission 753 link below) ... what speaker cables are you using? once they have heard my setup, and, noted the various well known speakers I have in my listening area.


The following is a close-up of the thin-nish speaker cables I am using.

Closeup of speaker cables from the Sansui AU-7900

You can see them deployed in the pix(s) for the Mission 753  at http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2011/01/mission-753-freedom.html, Meridian A500  at http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2011/02/meridian-a500.html and Sansui AU-7900 at http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2011/01/sansui-au-7900.html

Any guesses? If someone gets it right, I will spill the beans and reveal how I acquire them. 

Been using these speaker cables since 2004 for my Celestion SL6s, Quad PRO63, Meridian A500 and Technics SB-X700. I have a large box of well known brands of speaker cables in my storeroom - been there in the storeroom since I started using the above cables. Only took out the QED Silver Anniversary for the Mission 753 recently - can't recall when was the last occassion I used it before this!

Sssshh to my visitors who know the answer ... please don't tell them yet !!!

Meridian A500

My visitors often ask about my unbranded speakers (logo not visible from front) once they hear it. My usual response is  "... don't worry just enjoy the music".

View from sofa

Curiosity usually gets the best of them after about 5-10mins .  . . 

Angled view

Rear

Rear

Top

Frequent reactions upon eye-ing the well known logo include these for real?, how old are they?, where did you get them from?, and, don't remember this model?

The A500 was the last passive model speaker from Meridian e.g mid 90's. Judging from my visitor responses of the reproduction, one can easily imagine why the model is rarely available in the resale market.

Removing the sock (aka dust cover) reveals the two 6-inch units for mid and bass. Treble is provided by a horn loaded tweeter. Each speaker weights 25kg.

Without sock

Sock for speaker

Although rated at 90dB with maximum wattage of 100W, it is a surprisingly power hungry unit. I was using the Celestion SL6s (well known power hungry model) paired with a 100W subwoofer before switching to the A500. The SL6s were rated at 86dB and 120W. I expected the volume to increase after the swap. Received a most nasty shock as I had to turn the volume up a little more from the same setup, to obtain the volume as per the SL6s when using the A500!!!

From experience the A500 is at it's best when driven in a horizontal bi-amp mode. Bass is then superbly firm and sounds extremely realistic. High power amps are required to do so. Otherwise you will hear the polite bass, as per hifi reviews from the past. I previously used a pair of Arcam Alpha 8 power amps (50W RMS per channel; my mistake to use the newly recapped Sansui AU-5900 as pre-amp!!! Buyer wanted that as well)  for the task. Sold the Arcams as they were hardly used once I had my Sansui B-2101 and Sansui B-2102 power amps recapped since these were more capable (each rated at 200W RMS per channel).

Another unique feature is the method to re-sock the speaker. There are no pugs or pins to hold the sock in-place. Instead the grooves towards the front of the speaker are the holders. These grooves run the entire front parameter of the unit. Once you place the sock into them, you need to use a credit card (or similar plastic item) to push the sock firmly back into place.

Before "sock-ing"

"Sock-ing"

The base of the speaker has four spikes which are adjustable. My A500 was adjusted to be just slightly higher on the front than rear to permit better image projection nearby.

The original boxes for the A500 now store my SL6s.

Quad 33 (2nd set; ***Updated***)

After the conservative and successful maintainence to my 1st unit, I became more adventurous.

Top view of the 2nd unit

As per the 1st unit, voltage was increased to 16V following Dada Electronics suggestions. I replaced other capacitors in the unit with Wima, ROE,Philips for poly and EC are Panasonic ECA, FC and Rubycon. Poly caps were replaced in the motherboard of the Quad 33 as well, using ROE and Wima.

All value of the new capacitors are as per original except the large Wima used on the tape monitor board (immediate below). Found the 1.5uF MKS-C (replacing a 2.2uF electrolytic capacitor) to be most suitable, resulting in solid and realistic bass reproductions when partner-ed with my 2nd Quad 303 (http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.com/2010/12/quad-303-after-recapping-2nd-unit.html) driving the Meridian A500.

Phono and Tape adapters

Another view of the Phono and Tape adapters

Pre-amp adapter boards removed to show mainboard substitutions 

Closer view of the exposed mainboard

One of the pre-amp boards

Back of the pre-amp board with bypass

Phono board

Back of  Phono board with bypass

How do these Quad 33 sound and compare against the original?

Both of the original units were warm but sounding as if they hit a treble ceiling (aka roll-off). Bass was not boomy but neither was it firm. Reproduction of details from the original were acceptable but not superb - reveals much potential. 

After performing maintainence to the 1st Quad 33 unit, it sounds mellow with good reproduction of the background details. The 2nd unit builds upon the1st unit's capabilities with highly improved headroom and much firmer bass when paired with the maintained Quad 303.

The Quad 33 and 303 are well worth preserving as these were well designed with ease of maintain in mind.


Update - 15Nov2012

Bought some ERO KC1849 a while back but did not have the time to install them into my units.

Hence finally had the opportunity to insert four 0.01uF onto the Phono adapter board, replacing the blue Wima(s) of equivalent values.

After ERO replaced the blue Wima

So far so good ...

Altec Lansing ACS33 (2.1 for PC)

Although not really hifi, having a set of decent sounding speakers for the PC does help when you are listening to MP3, watching movies, accessing Youtube, etc - especially when you are used to a decent sound system!

I choose the Altec Lansing ACS33 (2.1) many years ago as I could not convince myself to invest on a pair of nice Klipsch speakers for the PC ($700+ vs about S$135 for the ACS33)!

ACS33 2.1 PC speakers

In stock form, sounds leans toward bass and can sound boomy. Details and highs were acceptable.

Hence I decided to investigate possibilities on improving the ACS33.

With bottom half of the sub uncovered

I removed 6 screws  from the bottom of the sub to reveal the above pix.

Closeup of PCB (after substitution)

Perform the following on the PCB:

• replace the 1uF EC with a poly (yellow)
• replace non-essential 1uF with poly (orange)
• replaced 4x0.22uF (green) poly with 0.15uF Vishay BC (grey) - makes largest audioble difference
• replaced the 2 caps for filtering power supply with Rubycon 2,200uF
• add a heatsink to the voltage regulator as it gets hot
• changed a few caps on the right side of the pix (though not really necessary)

The results?

Bass was firm and quite respectable. High and mids sound pretty decent (to myself)! Don't think I will be shopping for a replacement anytime soon...

Sansui AU-7900

The AU-7900 is a well known unit in the "black face" line-up of the 70's. Perhaps best known for it's great phono stage.

A feedback at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/97232-sansui-intergrated-amp-su-7900-a.html speaks volumes of the AU-7900, especially since it was in a shoot-out by a stereo club!

Front

Internals from top

From bottom

Frankly I was quite surprised by the "kick" from the unit - at the volume setting in the pix, it had enough juice to drive the Mission 753 Freedom to a decent volume - many articles mention the 753 can be power hungry!

No recapping necessary as it still sounds great after all these years! Quality really stood out for something in the 70's.

Mission 753 Freedom

I finally laid my hands on the infamous unit. Weighting in at about 25kg each, it is a well constructed speaker.

753 without cover. Meridian A500 (with puppet on top), Quad ESL Pro63 in the rear and the Technics Honeycomb 

Upon initial listening using the copper cable transferred from the Technics Honeycomb, the 753 was disappointing - sounding compressed, glimpse of imaging, restricted headroom, with plentiful of flabby bass???

I was driving it using the Leak Delta 30 with only 15W RMS per channel but enough to drive my other well known speakers ... (not tried the Leak on my stored Celestion SL6s and the Pro63 yet)

Searching the internet, there were many comments regarding using an amp of atleast 50W per channel as well as mods to the crossover, etc to get the best from the 753.

What I did note was that the above setup while had plentiful bass and sounding compress, the 753 did convey the details as per my other speakers.

Hence I decided to try a simple experiment before going for the "works". I replaced the existing copper cables with my old QED Silver Anniversary (newer version has less than half the original core size).

Sounds almost top flight via the low wattage Leak Delta 30 using QED Silver Anniversary speaker cables!!! Like night and day by just changing the speaker cables.


Update

On the following week I managed to add a Sansui AU-7900 to my collection.

Tried pairing it with the 753 via the copper cable (since it has more power than the Leak). Bass was respectable but over-emphasized. The treble had the 'behind the veil'effect. Hence I inserted a bypass using a ROE 0.022uF for the 10uF and 6.8uF capacitor. And insert WIMA 0.33uF bypass for the 470uF capacitors. Furthermore added 2 layers of foam padding to the bottom cavity as the original was empty(?).

The cross-over unit looks a bit different from the pix(s) on DIYAUDIO and other websites as this is the Freedom model - without the 1,000uF capacitors and a simplified crossover board.

Original

After adding bypass to capacitors

Different view of cross-overs

Add 2 layers of foam

Speaker cable from the AU-7900 - more than enough 'juice'to drive the 753F

Been an hour and the sound is beginning to take shape ... vocals are sweeter and bass is firmer. Has the makings of a keeper!


Update:

Using the previous setup and copper wires, the 753F seem to slightly warmish. Bass became more firmer, voices were almost "being there" but there seem to be a very light veil still in-place.

Connecting the 753F via QED Silver Anniversary seems to be it. Everything is falling into place, with firm bass!!